Imagine what it was like to work with the jewelers from one hundred and two hundred years ago. What would their tools be like? How did they light their workbench? How many hours, weeks, or months did a design take to execute? The imagined responses form the foundation for how we make jewelry in our own workshop.
There is a small group of jewelers still dedicated to classical jewelry techniques and our commitment to this tradition remains steadfast. The steps are deceptively simple and have barely changed for centuries. Mastering these, however, takes years of experience and a true commitment. Tips and ideas are passed on from master jeweler to apprentice. Hopefully, over and over again.
Our custom process is collaborative. The first step is the drawing. We begin with a watercolor design or pencil sketch. Our love of antique jewelry guides our aesthetic. Our understanding of antique cuts of stones and jewels adds a unique perspective to our custom collection.
Next, our jewelers often fabricate a model. The model is usually made from brass or silver. This allows us to work out the particular challenges of a project or to visualize proportions.
Traditional karat gold is a simple blend of pure gold, silver, and copper. Many modern gold formulas include ingredients like silicon, which are added to improve the flow while casting. However, we find these ingredients detrimental to the jeweler using traditional forming methods. In our workshop we custom mix our metals in order to control both the content and the coloring.
Once the metal is blended, the molten gold or platinum is poured into bars and ingots. By working the metal with forging techniques, the metal is strengthened. Ultimately all of our parts are formed using these hardened bars of gold or platinum. This process is laborious and slow but allows us to refine the details of each piece, allowing the most intricate work to remain strong and to withstand wear. These classic techniques enable the designs to be executed with less metal, emphasizing the stones and reducing the visual weight of the setting and complimenting the unusual proportions of antique gemstones. While computer aided design (CAD-CAM) and wax casting techniques have found useful applications in the jewelry trade, they are unable to achieve the same result as traditional fabrication.
Every setting is formed for each diamond, emphasizing the individual stone's characteristics. Every form is bent to fit the intended wearer.
Our Custom Collection gallery is a small but growing representation of the work produced in our workshop.
For further designs or references, please contact us by email or phone.